Abies sp.

Common Name:

Fir

Abies Fir

General information:

Firs have a pyramidal shape and horizontal branching with the lower branches drooping toward the ground. They may grow to 40 - 60 feet in the wild. The foliage is a wonderful blue-gray which appears much like that of the Colorado blue spruce. Firs resemble spruce trees with the major difference being that firs have erect cones, as opposed to spruces whose cones hang down.

Family:

Pinaceae

Lighting:

Full sun.

Temperature:

The firs are evergreens which prefer cold climates (although most species recommended for bonsai by the books are relatively heat- tolerant). Generally hardy in zones 3 through 7.

Watering:

They prefer it slightly dry, and over-watering is much worse than under-watering.

Feeding:

Feed in spring and autumn. The experts disagree on frequency of feeding; Tomlinson recommends every two weeks, and Resnick monthly. Firs like slightly acid soil, so the occasional dose of Miracid is appreciated.

Pruning and wiring:

New shoots should be pinched back throughout growth. The fir is best wired in spring. It is remarkably versatile, and can be trained into most styles.

Propagation:

Seed, layering or cuttings, except for the dwarf Korean fir, Abies koreana `Compact Dwarf’. Since it does not produce cones, it must be propagated through grafting.

Repotting:

Firs need to be acclimated to pot culture, so they should be planted in oversized pots and introduced into small pots gradually. They can be transplanted in either spring or autumn, and may need it every 2 years. Tomlinson recommends basic soil mix, although with the fir’s preference for dryness a fast-draining soil might be worth a try.

Pests and diseases:

Pests:

Generally none are serious, but a few cause some damage. The balsam twig aphid feeds on the new growth of fir causing distorted needles and deposits of honeydew. Trees can tolerate fairly heavy infestations for a short period of time but are weakened by repeated heavy infestations. Bagworm builds and lives in a two to three- inch long sack built from needles and other debris. The insect overwinters as eggs in the sacks of the female. Control by hand-picking the bags in winter. The more common scale insects infesting fir are oystershell, pine needle, and cottony cushion. These insects are hard to control once inside their shell or waxy coatings. The crawler stage is most easily controlled with appropriate pesticides. Spider mites in hot areas cause older needles to lose green coloration and become yellowed. The insects are very small and difficult to see so infestations can become severe before being noticed.

Diseases:

Generally none are serious enough to cause concern. Needle and twig blight results in the shriveling and reddening of the new growth. The needles of current seasons growth are curled and dead. Terminal growth and some laterals may be killed. Pine twig blight is a problem on stressed trees. The fungus will not ordinarily be a problem unless the host plant is weakened. The infection usually begins at the terminal bud near a branch tip. Infection takes place in late summer and the disease progresses down a twig into a node. At times the infection may go into 2-year-old wood. Needles on infected branches turn reddish then die. Cut off and destroy infected twigs. Several rusts attack firs but are not a problem on landscape trees. The diseases are rarely seen. Several different fungi cause cankers on the trunks and branches of firs. Cankers are sunken areas in the bark that gradually get larger. When the stem is completely encircled the part beyond the canker dies. Keep the plants healthy by fertilizing and watering during dry weather. Cankers can be largely prevented by avoiding plant injury. Root rots caused by several fungi kill roots and rot wood. Little can be done to control the diseases other than to keep trees healthy to prevent disease infection. Maintain tree health by regular fertilization and watering during dry weather.

The following firs are recommended for bonsai:

Abies alba - silver fir: dark green needles, cylindrical cones.

Abies concolor - white fir, silver fir, Colorado fir: hardy to zone 4. Can grow to 80 ft. in the wild. Gray bark, bluish-green 2 inch needles. Native to southwestern US. This fir can take exposure and will withstand some heat and drought better than most firs.

Abies firma - Momi fir, Japanese fir: dark green 1 1/2 inch needles. Hardy from zones 6 to 9. Native to Japan. Grows up to 70 ft. tall in the wild. It is one of the most heat tolerant firs.

Abies homolepis - Nikko fir: dark green, 1 inch needles. Hardy from zones 4-7. A native of Japan, it can grow up to 80 ft. tall in the wild. Heat-tolerant.

Abies koreana - Korean fir: a small fir. Dark green needles, less than 1 inch long. Its most outstanding feature is its brilliant violet cones. Abies koreana `Compact Dwarf’ - dwarf Korean fir: dwarf variety; dark green needles, no cones. Zones 5-7.

Abies lasiocarpa - Alpine fir: grayish-green needles, 1 1/2 inches long. Native to area from Alaska to Northern California. Purple cones. Zones 5-7.

Abies lasiocarpa arizonica - cork fir: silver-gray needles, corky bark.

Abies lasiocarpa arizonica `Compacta’ - dwarf cork fir: silvery blue- gray needles, dwarf variety.

Abies nebrodensis - Nebrodi silver fir: similar to A. alba, but denser needles, smaller size. Native to the Nebrodi Mts. of Italy, it is almost extinct in the wild.

Abies sacalinensis - Sakhalin fir: hardy to zone 3.

Bibliography:

The Simon and Schuster Guide to Bonsai by Resnick

Complete Guide to Bonsai by Tomlinson USDA Fact Sheet ST-1

Compiled by Sabrina Caine

Edited by Michael Johnson and Thomas L. Zane  

Araucaria heterophylla / Araucaria araucana

Common Name:

Norfolk Island Pine / Monkey Puzzle Tree

araucaria heterophylla norfolk pine

General Information:

The Norfolk Island Pine is a large evergreen has a single upright trunk, tiered branching habit, and a narrow pyramidal or columnar shape. Eventually reaching a height of about 80 feet, the tree possesses a rapid growth rate. The tree would grow taller, but lightning frequently limits height growth in the eastern U.S. The dark green, 1/2-inch- long, individual leaves on young trees are lanceolate and look somewhat like spruce or fir needles at first glance. Mature leaves are somewhat contorted on twisted branches. Both leaf types appear on the tree at the same time. The trunk is often curved and swollen at the base and black. The large, spiny, 10 to 15-pound cones are rare in cultivation. Male and female cones are usually found on separate plants. They are native to South America and some Pacific islands.

The Monkey-Puzzletree, also an Araucaria, is a large, bizarre evergreen, 60 to 70 feet tall and 30 to 35 feet wide, which forms a loose, see-through, pyramidal shape with a straight trunk. The tree is so open in habit you could almost look at it and not see it. The leaves are dark green, stiff, with sharp needles densely arranged on horizontal, irregular, upwardly-sweeping branches. Monkey-Puzzletree makes an attractive, novelty specimen for a large, open yard or commercial landscape. It is normally planted only as an oddity someplace in the rear of a landscape out of view from most passers- by but could be the specimen feature in a large oriental landscape.

Family:

Araucariaceae

Lighting:

They prefer full sun but will survive in low light.

Temperature:

The Norfolk Island Pine is hardy in Zones 10 through 11. The monkey-puzzle tree is hardy in zones 7B through 11, but doesn’t grow well in overly hot areas.

Watering:

Allow the soil to dry out between waterings. Araucaria does not like damp soil.

Feeding:

The Samsons recommend organic fertilizer in spring and autumn. My mom feeds hers (houseplant, not bonsai) with ordinary ol’ houseplant food.

Pruning and wiring:

Can be wired at any time, but avoid wiring tender shoots. Wire should remain on the tree for a maximum of four months. Learning to prune can be difficult, as Geoline attests:

“These are not easily pruned because you can’t just cut a >frond or tip and expect new growth. In the spring, only prune new buds just when they are beginning to emerge and are still light green in colour. Remove just the tip which will include about three soft, needle-like leaves the same way you would go about bud pruning a Juniper. In a few weeks to a month, two new buds should take the place of the missing buds. If you pinch a bud wrong, new growth at the tip will cease. NIPs are one of those trees which you should practice bud pinching on several inexpensive practice plants first to develop an eye for pinching at just the right time.”

Araucaria makes especially good cascades, as they can be trained towards a light source. They also work as simulated palms.

Propagation:

From seed in spring - germination is slow, and is aided by the use of bottom heat. Cuttings may be taken from terminal shoots, not from laterals.

Repotting:

Every second year in spring, using fast-draining soil mix. Pests and diseases: No pests or diseases are of major concern. Scales, sooty mold, leaf spots.

Some species suitable for bonsai:

Araucaria araucana: monkey puzzle tree - A large, spreading tree, growing to 80 ft. and 30-40 ft. wide. Has two inch needles and branches which grow in a whorled pattern. Grows well on the West Coast - it is barely hardy in the Northeast and suffers from the heat in the South.

Araucaria heterophylla (also called Araucaria excelsa): Norfolk Island pine - a common houseplant, often sold decorated around Christmas! Has a pyramidal shape and short needles. It is grown outdoors in some areas of Florida and Southern California.

Bibliography:

Lesniewicz’s “Bonsai in Your Home”

Samson’s “Creative Art of Bonsai”

Mitchell’s “American Nature Guides: Trees”

Thomas (ed.) “The Hearst Garden Guide to Trees and Shrubs” USDA Fact Sheet ST-81 and ST-83.

Compiled by Sabrina Caine Edited by Thomas L. Zane 

Casuarina equisetifolia

Common Name:

Australian Pine

casuarina equisetifolia australian pine

General information:

Long-favored for use in erosion control along beaches, Australian-Pine Tree is now outlawed in many parts of Florida due to its invasive nature, rapid growth rate, and non-native status. It is not a true pine tree and is not related to the pines. A straight, upright tree capable of reaching 70 to 90 feet in height and possessing rough, fissured, dark gray bark, Australian-Pine has what appear to be long, soft, gray/green needles but these “needles” are actually multi-jointed branchlets, the true leaves being rather inconspicuous. These “needles” sway gently in the breeze and give off a distinctive, soft whistle when winds are particularly strong. The insignificant flowers are followed by small, spiny cones, less than one-inch- long.

Discovery of the New World made possible great interchange of trees and other plants between East and West. The Yankee Clippers and afterwards botanical explorers brought back from temperate portions of Asia many trees and plants, now found in most gardens. The subtropical regions of Florida, southern Texas, southern Arizona, and California have obtained a wealth of exotic trees from tropical lands throughout the world. Indeed, some of these exotics have become so successful that they have escaped from cultivation and become naturalized, propagating themselves in waste places, road sides, and woods as if wild.

There are 45 species of the genus Casuarina, pronounced Casuarina (cas-you-a-ry-na), variously, known as Australian pine, beefwood, forest oak, she-oak, horsetail tree, and ironwood. A large evergreen tree resembling conifers, with thin crown of drooping branches and with leaves reduced to scale. Leaves like a horsetail.

Useful as wind breakers, especially near the sea. The most widely know and used species as c. equisetifolia and c. cunninghami. C. equisetifolia, frequently called “horsetail tree” is one of the most rapid growers known, as high as 80 feet in a ten year period. It flourishes in the warmest areas in South Florida, Zone 9, on pine land and along exposed shores, but cannot stand frost. C cunninghami is also cultivated in South Florida, being stronger and denser in growth and is somewhat hardier to cold. The wood is very hard, red, heavy and quite durable. To some its appearance is sad, dull, gloomy and depressing.

Unisexual, both sexes being usually on the same tree. Male flowers appear in spikes at branchlets tips, feminine flowers in round heads at the bases of branchlets. The staminate born in spikes and the pistillate in dense heads becoming dry cones in fruit. It fruit are dry cones 1/4 to 1/2 inch in diameter, light brown.

Family:

Casuarinaceae

Lighting:

Full sun to bright shade. This tree does well indoors and will take air conditioning if in a sunny window and not too cold. Keep out of direct cold air. Does well in a green house. (Editor’s note: David Fukomoto of the Fuku-Bonsai Nursery in Hawaii disagrees with growing indoors. A minimum of 1000 foot candles of light would be needed, and while it may live, it will be too weak for training. Full sun is recommended.)

Temperature:

Does not tolerated extended freeze. Zones 9B through 11.

Watering:

Tolerates dry soil between waterings.

Feeding:

No information available.

Pruning and wiring:

Good for weeping, slanting or cascade style. Propagation: Seeds or cuttings of half-ripened wood.

Pests and diseases:

Pests:

No pests are of major concern.

Diseases:

Root rot.

Bibliography:

Simpson, Torrey “Ornamental Gardening in Florida”, (1926)

Everett, Thomas H. “Living Trees of the World”

Little, Elbert L. “Fifty Trees from Foreign Lands”, Year Book of Agriculture, 1949.

Florida Landscape Plants, Watkins 126

Florida Bonsai:1:31-32, IX:2:48

Sunset Bonsai: pg 85

USDA Fact Sheet ST-129

 

Compiled by Thomas L. Zane

Cedrus libani

Common Name:

Cedar of Lebanon

Cedrus libani

General Information:

This is a large stately evergreen, with a massive trunk when mature, and wide-sweeping, sometimes upright branches (more often horizontal) which originate on the lower trunk. Dark green needles and cones, which are held upright above the foliage, add to the impressive appearance. Young specimens retain a pyramidal shape but the tree takes on a more open form with age. Like most true cedars, it does not like to be transplanted, and prefers a pollution-free, sunny environment.

The Cedar of Lebanon is originally from the Middle East and grows to be a 40 - 50 feet tall tree in nature. The needles are short (1/2 to 1 inch) and grow in tufts along the branches. Cedars of Lebanon are widely used as an ornamental and are often found growing near the foundations of old homesteads.

Cedar of Lebanon is one of only four species (not including cultivars) of true cedars. The others are Atlas cedar C. atlantica, Deodar cedar C. deodara and Cyprus cedar C. brevifolia. Most other “cedars” are of the Juniperus, Chamaecyparis, or Thuja genera.

Family:

Pinaceae

Lighting:

Full sun.

Temperature:

Zones 5B through 10A. Watering: Has a high drought tolerance.

Feeding:

Simon and Schuster’s recommends feeding once a month with a slow-acting organic fertilizer during the growing season. If you prefer to use chemical fertilizers, feed every other week with a half-strength solution of a balanced fertilizer, such as Peter’s 20-20-20.

Pruning and wiring:

Basic pruning and positioning of the roots should be done at the time of initial potting and branch selection. The root system should be reduced gradually, so that there is always a good set of feeder roots.

To develop the foliage, pinch the new shoots (candles) with your ringers, leaving about one third of the shoot. Wiring is best done in the fall, but can be done in summer and should be avoided in spring. Wire can be left on for up to a year, but you should watch closely for any sign of wire cutting into the bark.

Propagation:

No information available.

Repotting:

Every 3-5 years in spring. May also be repotted at the end of summer or beginning of autumn, as the roots undergo renewed growth at that time. Simon and Schuster’s recommends 70% soil, 20% coarse sand, and 10% peat. Rémy Samson recommends 1 part leaf mould, 1 part loam and 1 part coarse sand. Cedars need good drainage, since they do not tolerate wet soil. If the tree gets a lot of rain, tip the pot slightly to encourage drainage. Use a deep bonsai pot, either unglazed or a glazed earth colour.

Place the tree where it will get good air circulation, but will be protected from wind, especially young trees and newly repotted trees.

Conifers grow in association with a symbiotic fungus which grows in the root ball of the tree. If this fungus is not present, the tree may die. For this reason, pines and other conifers should never be bare-rooted, unless steps are taken to re-introduce the fungus to the repotted plant, such as making a slurry (thin mud) of the old soil and pouring it over the newly potted soil.

Some experts feel that it is more important to be sure that the tree always has a healthy root system with sufficient feeder roots than to worry about symbiotic fungi. They feel that trees are more likely to die from having their root systems reduced too much at once than from not having the fungus present. Certainly it is good advice in any case to be sure the tree has sufficient roots.

Pests and diseases:

No pests or diseases are of major concern.

Bibliography:

USDA Fact Sheet ST-136

Compiled by Sabrina Caine

Edited by Michael Johnson and Thomas L. Zane

Cedrus sp.

Common Name:

Cedar

cedrus atlantica

General Information:

Before I discuss what cedar is, perhaps I’d better clarify what cedar isn’t. Eastern red cedar isn’t a Cedrus at all, it’s a juniper - Juniperus virginiana (which, BTW, is the “cedar” used as fragrant red cedar woodwork). Eastern white cedar and Western red cedar aren’t Cedrus either, they’re arborvitae - Thuja occidentalis and Thuja plicata, respectively. Incense cedar, Calocedrus decurrens, is close, but no cigar. Japanese cedar is Cryptomeria japonica.

When is a cedar not a cypress? When it’s a Chamaecyparis. Too add to all this wonderful mess, we have Chamaecyparis lawsoniana, the Port Orford cedar, and Chamaecyparis thyoides, the Western or Atlantic white cedar, which are actually considered false-cypresses (why not false-cedars?)

These distinctions, in the case of Cedrus, are mind-bogglingly important. The watering requirements for Cedrus are very different than those for false- cypress. And confuse Cedrus with Thuja? Cedrus likes it warm and dry, and has a reputation for being a high-strung, finicky bonsai (although those that grow cedar in something close to its natural Mediterranean climate report great success). Thuja could probably be kicked the length of your yard and stuck in the freezer for a few days. Not, of course, that I recommend this.)

Probably the easiest way to keep things straight is to remember that Cedrus is a very small genera. There are only four kinds of cedar and they all have pointy needles like pines, spruces and firs (the Pinaceae). The impostors (except Cryptomeria) all have scaly, frond-like foliage when mature (family Cupressaceae). All true cedars originated in the Old World - the Mediterranean and the Himalayas. Cedars are large evergreen trees with grey bark - smooth at first, becoming rough with age - and erect, woody cones. Cedar wood has historically been important in commerce, and remains popular today for its fine scent.

Family:

Pinaceae

Lighting:

Full sun.

Temperature:

Most will need some frost protection. May need some protection from wind burn to prevent branch die back in colder areas.

Watering:

Moderate in summer, reducing as the weather gets colder. Allow the soil to dry somewhat between waterings. Needles turn yellow when over-watered.

Feeding:

Every two weeks during spring and autumn. Stop feeding during the heat of midsummer.

Repotting:

Every 3-5 years in spring, Preferably before new white roots appear in February-April, using a fast-draining soil mix. Cedars do not like root disturbance, so repot only when necessary. C. atlas glauca is especially sensitive and needs extra humidity to avoid shedding its needles. If needle loss occurs, buds should soon burst forth. According to the Samsons, cedars do not like to be bare-rooted when being repotted.

Pruning and wiring:

Pinch back new shoots. Heavy pruning should be avoided, as the cedar takes quite a long time to heal pruning scars. If it is necessary, jinning branch stubs may be a more attractive option than leaving a scarred trunk. Brent Walston shared the following method of producing large trunks on Cedrus:

Decide how tall you want your tree to be, six times the diameter of the trunk is ideal, you can give yourself some leeway because it will increase in diameter while in training. Then look for a likely spot to cut the top off, I look for a set of close internodes around the height I want, this will give a good apex. About six inches above this point make a forty five degree angle cut on the BACK of the tree about halfway through. Grab the top of the tree and break it, pulling it down and ripping the wood and bark on the front of the tree. You can pull it down as far as you want exposed wood to show, all the way to the crown if you like, but not into the roots or rot will result. When pulled down to the right position twist and break it as much as possible to get it free at this point, you may have to do some cutting, but breaking it free looks more natural. At the cut portion of the top, split the wood vertically with branch cutters and pull down bundles of fibres with pliers until no saw cut marks are visible. The effect that you want is that of a lightening struck tree. I grab the fibres with the pliers and roll the pliers down the trunk rather than give a straight pull, you can exert much more force this way.

The tree may be wired at any time, but the branches take a while to set, and the wire may need to be on for three months up to a year. If it’s on that long, be sure to check it often to make sure it doesn’t cut into the bark!

Propagation:

Soak seeds for 48 hours, then one month cold pre-treatment before sowing. In my experience, the seeds are susceptible to mould, and soaking in a weak bleach solution before cold treatment may be desired. Seeds should be sown in spring, preferably in May. Cedar seedlings should be potted up and staked after their first year. Cyprian cedar and blue Atlas cedar are usually propagated through grafting, which can be done in late summer. Softwood cuttings may be taken in spring, or hardwood cuttings taken in autumn.

Pests and Diseases:

Bark beetles, caterpillars, honey fungus.

Some species suitable for bonsai:

Cedrus atlantica: Atlantic cedar, Atlas cedar - a short-needled (less than 1 inch) variety, the Atlas cedar has pale grey bark and a conical profile. The species has green to bluish-green needles. Thrives in zones 6-8.

Cedrus atlantica glauca: blue Atlas cedar - A steel blue cultivar. Cedrus brevifolia: Cyprus cedar, Cyprian cedar - A very slow growing tree, with short, dark green needles.

Cedrus deodara: Deodar cedar, Indian cedar - the largest cedar, it is reputed to grow up to 250 feet in Afghanistan. It has deep green 1 1/2 inch long needles which may turn gray in hot, dry areas. Best used only for large size bonsai, it lacks the refinement of other cedars. Deodar cedar has an unusual profile. Although conical, it grows with a “dropper leader,” which means that the top of the tree tends to form a drooping arch (which would make it, I suppose, “formal drooping style.”) The most tender cedar, zones 7-9.

Cedrus libani: Cedar of Lebanon - in nature, Cedar of Lebanon can grow to be 100 feet tall. It has an unusually spreading, rounded profile for a conifer, and is often seen with multiple trunks. Needle length is about 1 inch. Zones 6-8.

Cedrus libani ‘Green Prince’ - Grows very slowly, only 18 inches in ten years. Very short dark green, almost black, needles. Highly recommended for bonsai, but rare and expensive.

Cedrus libani ‘Nana’: dwarf cedar of Lebanon

Compiled by Sabrina Caine 

Chamaecyparis sp.

Common Name:

Hinoki or False Cypress

chamaecyparis lawsoniana

General Information:

This broad, sweeping, conical-shaped evergreen has graceful, flattened, fern-like branchlets which gently droop at branch tips. Hinoki False cypress reaches 50 to 75 feet in height with a spread of 10 to 20 feet, has dark green foliage, and attractive, shredding, reddish-brown bark which peels off in long narrow strips.

The easiest false cypress to keep alive is the Hinoki cypress, C. obtusa. Many report great success in growing it, but unfortunately, it seems to be one of the most difficult to keep in proper bonsai form due to the whorling fan pattern of the foliage. Boulevard cypress (C. pisifera ‘Boulevard’) and Chamaecyparis thyoides ‘Andelyensis Conica’, Andelyensis cypress, seem to be the varieties which cause the most grief.

Family:

Cupressaceae

Lighting:

Full sun, in all but the hottest climates, is ESSENTIAL. Without proper lighting, lower and inner branches brown and die, which is a serious problem because Chamaecyparis will not bud back on old wood. Many books recommend putting these trees in the shade, but this seems to be a strategy to avoid having the soil dry out completely (see watering, below).

Temperature:

Zone 5 - 8A. Most Chamaecyparis species are hardy to -10F, but are in danger of die-back from cold, drying winds. Some degree of frost/wind protection is advised. Lesniewicz claims that C. pisifera Plumosa,’ C. pisifera ‘Nana Aurea,’ and C. pisifera ‘ Squarrosa’ can be grown indoors, in a bright, airy location away from any heat sources.

Watering:

Touchy. Many varieties, especially Boulevard/blue moss cypress, are very vulnerable to root rot. However, unlike most genera that like it dry, false-cypresses tend to drink a lot of water, especially when in an active growth phase. And Chamaecyparis can never be allowed to dry out completely. Also, drying winds can cause foliage die-back. The best strategy is to use very fast-draining soil, water moderately, allow it to dry somewhat between waterings, and supplement watering with frequent misting. Also, an older couple in the Buffalo Bonsai Society with some very nice Chamaecyparis advised me to water only in the morning to early afternoon, to avoid having the trees stand in water overnight.

Feeding:

Every two weeks, from early spring to mid autumn. Use Miracid, as Chamaecyparis is a lime-hater. An extra tip from Brent: for blue varieties (Chamaecyparis pisiferaBoulevard, Chamaecyparis lawsoniana ‘Minima Glauca’) water occasionally with 1 teaspoon/gallon epsom salts. This will provide added magnesium which turns the foliage an intense blue.

Pruning and wiring:

The major styling challenge for false cypress is the fatal combination of rapid growth, die-back from lack of light, and refusal to bud on old wood. If Chamaecyparis isn’t pruned constantly, inside and lower branches will die and never grow back, making bonsai maintenance a headache. The tree is best shaped through constant pinching of new foliage - never use scissors to prune as foliage browns where cut. Hinoki cypress also tends to form awkward whorls of foliage if not properly pruned. There is an excellent article by Kamajiro Yamada in International Bonsai 1995/No. 3 which gives detailed instructions accompanied with photographs of how to do this. Most false cypresses are easy to wire, but branches may take a while to set and may need to be re-wired several times to avoid cutting in to the tree. Can be wired at any time of year, but as wiring seems to sap the vigouvigorr of the plant, it is best to wait three months after repotting to wire.

Propagation:

Cuttings can be taken from young wood in July or August. Hinoki cypress cuttings will root readily. Can be grown from seed, but needs cold pre-treatment and may take up to a year to germinate. Veneer grafting can be used on Hinoki cypress in summer.

Repotting:

Every two to four years in early to mid spring for young trees, every three to five years for older ones. Your soil mix will depend on your conditions: fast-draining is the best idea for most people, but a richer mix might be preferable in extremely hot areas to keep the roots from drying completely. Hinoki cypress roots easily, and may need to be repotted every second year, removing as much as 1/3 to 1/2 of the root mass. Avoid using pots which are too large, especially with Boulevard cypress, as this keeps them too wet.

Pests and diseases:

Pests: Juniper scale can be controlled by applying pesticides when the crawlers are active. The bagworm webs dead foliage and other debris together to make a nest. The covering makes the insect difficult to control. The nests can be picked off by hand. Diseases: Blight can be a problem on young plants in nurseries or old plants in landscape situations. In young plants, branch tips turn brown and die back until the whole branch or young tree is killed. Trees over five years old are less susceptible. When older trees in landscapes are affected by tip blight, entire trees are seldom killed. Tip blight can infect trees during wet weather. The disease causes sooty pustules on the leaves, bark and cones. Scorch may look like a disease but is caused by excessive direct sun, freezing stress, drought or mites.

Some species suitable for bonsai:

Chamaecyparis lawsoniana: Lawson cypress, Port Orford cedar - neither a cedar nor a cypress, it is hardy in zones 6-8. Reddish brown bark and bright green foliage with purplish brown cones. There are several hundred cultivars of this species.

Chamaecyparis lawsoniana ‘Ellwoodii Improved’: Ellwood cypress - a slow-growing, bluish shrub with small, tight foliage.

Chamaecyparis lawsoniana ‘Minima Aurea’: A dwarf cultivar of Port Orford cedar with yellow-green young foliage.

Chamaecyparis lawsoniana ‘Minima Glauca’ - A blue dwarf cv. of Port Orford cedar.

Chamaecyparis nootkatensi: Nootka cypress - Brownish-grey bark and thick, dark green, drooping foliage. The Chamaecyparis of choice in cold climates, Thomas claims it is hardy in zones 5-7, while Mitchell says it’s native as far north as Anchorage, Alaska.

Chamaecyparis obtusa: Hinoki cypress - supposedly hardy in zones 5-8, but Brent says to -10F and I’d tend to believe him. Has reddish brown bark and dark green, fanlike foliage. Hinoki cypress foliage turns reddish in the winter.

Chamaecyparis obtusa ‘Blue Feathers’ - very fine, aqua green foliage, more similar to Sawara than Hinoki cypress.

Chamaecyparis obtusa ‘Filicoides’: fernspray cypress. Chamaecyparis obtusa ‘Kamaeni Hiba’ - a lovely little false cypress, with graceful foliage like ocean spray, tipped with yellow.

Chamaecyparis obtusa ‘Kosteri’: Koster cypress.

Chamaecyparis obtusa ‘Nana’: dwarf Hinoki cypress, dwarf Japanese false cypress.

Chamaecyparis obtusa ‘Nana Gracilis’: Hinoki cypress - Hardy to zone 5. Immature foliage is bright yellow.

Chamaecyparis obtusa ‘Yatsubusa’: Hinoki cypress .

Chamaecyparis pendula - Has long, threadlike foliage, similar to mature juniper foliage. Young growth is tipped yellow- green.

Chamaecyparis pisifera: Sawara cypress - supposedly hardy in zones 5-8, but I’d stick with -10F. It has reddish-brown bark and pointy foliage reminiscent of young junipers, which make it easier to style than other Chamaecyparis varieties. Note, however, that the foliage shape on C. pisifera cultivars varies greatly.

Chamaecyparis pisifera ‘Boulevard’ (often called C. pisifera ‘Cyano Veridis’ which is technically incorrect): Boulevard cypress, blue moss cypress - grows more slowly than other false cypresses. Has a graceful, arching habit and soft, blue foliage.

Chamaecyparis pisifera compacta ‘white’ - a dwarf Sawara cypress with distinctly ivory tipped fronds.

Chamaecyparis pisifera ‘Filifera’: threadbranch cypress - has drooping, threadlike branches.

Chamaecyparis pisifera ‘Nana Aurea’: Sawara cypress. Chamaecyparis pisifera ‘Plumosa’: Sawara cypress - light green, feathery foliage.

Chamaecyparis pisifera ‘Snow’: Sawara cypress - Fast growing, with green to yellow foliage.

Chamaecyparis pisifera ‘squarrosa’: Sawara cypress.

Chamaecyparis pisifera ‘Tsukumo’ - Soft, dark green foliage, more like Hinoki or Shimpaku juniper than Sawara cypress.

Chamaecyparis thyoides ‘Andelyensis Conica’: Andelyensis Conica cypress, Andelyensis white cedar. Zones 5-8. A dense cone of blue- green foliage.

Chamaecyparis thyoides ‘Heatherbun’.

Bibliography:

Jahn (ed.) “The Simon and Schuster Guide to Bonsai” Lesniewicz’s “Bonsai in Your Home”

Owen’s “Bonsai Identifier”

Resnick’s “Bonsai”

Samson’s “Creative Art of Bonsai”

Tomlinson’s “Complete Book of Bonsai”

Information on individual species is from Mitchell’s “American Nature Guides: Trees,” and Thomas (ed.) “The Hearst Garden Guide to Trees and Shrubs”

Issue 3, 1995 International Bonsai, “The Culture & Styling of Hinoki Cypress Bonsai” by Kamajiro Yamada, and “Creating False-Cypress Bonsai” by Shinji Ogasawara are excellent sources for styling help.

USDA Fact Sheet ST-156

Compiled by Sabrina Caine Edited by Thomas L. Zane

Cryptomeria

Common Name:

Japanese cedar

cryptomeria

General information:

The tree keeps a billowy pyramidal form on one central trunk until close to maturity when the crown opens up into an irregular, narrow oval. It will reach a height of about 50 feet and spread about 20 feet. Old specimens can develop trunks to three feet in diameter. The reddish brown bark is ornamental, peeling off in long strips, and is the most pronounced characteristic on old trees. The foliage will become bronzed during the winter but greens up again in spring. Branches usually persist on the tree with old specimens branched to the ground.

Cryptomeria is much loved in Japan as an ornamental and as a bonsai. Although it is called the Japanese cedar, it is not a true cedar (Cedrus). It has compact blue-green foliage and peeling red bark. It has small needles 3/4 inch or smaller. Cryptomeria japonica is the only species of this genus, but there are many cultivars available.

Family:

Taxodiaceae

Lighting:

Full sun.

Temperature:

Hardy in zones 6-8. If the Cryptomeria is kept outside during winter, it is likely that the foliage will turn reddish-brown in reaction to the cold. This is natural, and even though the plant looks somewhat like it is dying, it should recover in the spring if it is not exposed to temperatures below its tolerance. Always shield from strong winds.

Watering:

Moderate, but never allow the soil to dry out. Cryptomeria can be quite thirsty in summer and needs constant checking. Likes misting, and tends to lose needles if there is not enough humidity.

Feeding:

Spring-autumn, every 14-30 days.

Pruning and wiring:

The compact habit of the Cryptomeria necessitates vigilant pruning of new growth, entangled branches and overlapping shoots. This will provide space for light and air to reach the desired foliage, and reduces the likelihood of fungus and insect problems. Pinch back new growth, as clipping with scissors results in browning tips. The plant tends to thicken at intersections between trunk and branches, so unwanted upper branches should be removed promptly to avoid loss of trunk taper. Unwanted branches are often turned into jins. The Cryptomeria is most often styled as a formal upright, or as part of a forest planting. It is also often used in sakei. Cryptomeria should be pruned and wired from mid-spring through the end of summer. Do not work on Cryptomeria during winter. The Cryptomeria is delicate after pruning and wiring, and should be pampered by shielding it from sun and wind and misting several times a day for a few weeks after it has been worked upon.

Propagation:

By simple layering, or softwood cuttings in summer. Cryptomeria can be grafted, but this is generally done only by professionals. Cryptomeria seeds do not germinate reliably.

Repotting:

Every 3-5 years in spring, after growth has begun. Root pruning should be very gradual, and occur a year after selective reduction of the foliage.

Pests and diseases:

Pests:

Mites and scale can infest the foliage.

Diseases:

Leaf blight and leaf spot are two problems. Leaf blight often causes much of the interior foliage to brown, creating an unsightly specimen. Fungicide sprays help prevent the disease, as does placing the tree so it receives early morning sun to dry the foliage. Keep the foliage as dry as possible.

Some species suitable for bonsai:

Cryptomeria japonica ‘Bandai-sugi’: conical cryptomeria - a dwarf cv which grows to about 6 feet tall.

Cryptomeria japonica :Jundai-sugi’: globular cryptomeria Cryptomeria japonica ‘Lobbi Nana’: dwarf cryptomeria

Cryptomeria japonica ‘Pygmaea’: dwarf cryptomeria

Cryptomeria japonica ‘Tansu’: Japanese cedar, Tansu cryptomeria Cryptomeria japonica ‘Tokyo’

Cryptomeria japonica ‘Viminalis’

Cryptomeria japonica ‘Yatsubusa’: Japanese red cedar - a dwarf form with a naturally narrow conical form and compact foliage.

Cryptomeria japonica ‘Zuisho’

Bibliography:

USDA Fact Sheet ST-217

Compiled by Sabrina Caine Edited by Thomas L. Zane 

Juniperus chinensis sargentii

Common Name:

Sargent’s Juniper

juniperus chinensis sargentii

General information:

In Japan, this tree is called “shimpaku” and thus it is often referred to in western countries as “shimpaku juniper”. The shimpaku is native to Japan, the Kurile Islands and the Sahalin peninsula. Its natural habit is prostrate and it prefers rocky, well-drained soils. In its natural range, it is most often found growing near the sea. The foliage is needle-like on young trees and scale-like on older trees. The fruit is a small, hard, bluish berry.

Lighting:

Full sun.

Temperature:

Wide range of temperatures, will tolerate freezing.

Watering:

Spray the foliage with water daily during the growing season. Water when the soil is moderately dry (to a depth of 1/2 to 1 inch) but do not let the soil dry out completely.

Feeding:

Simon and Schuster’s recommends feeding from early spring to autumn ever 20-30 days using a slow-acting organic fertilizer.

If you prefer to use chemical fertilizers, apply a half-strength solution every other week of a reasonably balanced fertilizer, such as Peter’s 20-20-20. You may wish to alternate with an acidic fertilizer such as Miracid.

You should not fertilize during the hottest part of the summer (July-mid August in the northern hemisphere), or if the tree is weak or has recently (2- 4 weeks) been repotted.

Pruning and wiring:

Reduce the roots gradually, removing no more than one third of the roots at each repotting. To develop the foliage, pinch out the tender new shoots using your fingers. Do not use scissors, as the cut needles will turn brown. Pinching must be done continuously during the growing season.

Prune undesirable branches (especially those growing straight down from their parent branch) when repotting or during the growing season.

Wiring is best done in autumn or early winter, so that the branches can become accustomed to their new position while the tree is dormant. Wiring done at other times must be watched carefully for signs of wire cutting into the bark, and must be removed immediately if this happens. If necessary, the tree can be re-wired after removing the old wire.

Propagation:

No information available.

Repotting:

Repot young trees (up to 10 years) every other year. Repot older trees every 3-4 years. Repotting is best done in spring. Junipers can also be repotted in autumn if necessary, since they enter a period of renewed root growth at that time. Extensive root pruning in autumn is probably not a good idea, however.

Simon and Schuster’s recommends 60% soil, 10% peat, and 30% coarse sand. Rémy Samson recommends 1 part loam, 1 part leaf mould, and 1 part coarse sand. Peter Chan recommends 1 part loam, 1 part peat, and 3 parts coarse sand.

The tree should be protected from wind and direct sun for a month or two after repotting.

Pests and diseases:

Junipers are a favourite victim of red spider mites. If the tree appears weak, with yellowing foliage, it may have spider mites. To check for spider mites, hold a sheet of white paper under a branch and gently shake the foliage. If the paper comes away with many small dots that move, it has spider mites. To combat spider mites, spray with insecticidal soap or a nicotine solution (which can be made by soaking tobacco in water overnight).

Compiled by Sabrina Caine

Juniperus procumbens nana

Common Name:

Japanese Dwarf Garden Juniper

juniperus procumbens nana

General Information:

This is the tree that is most often used for the ubiquitous “mall bonsai”. In spite of this bad press, it does in fact make a fine bonsai if it is properly trained and cared for (unlike the average “mall bonsai”).

This juniper has a low, spreading habit that makes it ideal for cascade and semi-cascade styles. Specimens grown in a nursery or specifically for bonsai can be used for many styles, but probably not for formal upright. In nature it grows as a small ground-cover shrub. The foliage is bright green.

Lighting:

Full sun.

Temperature:

Tolerates a wide range of temperatures, including freezing,however, roots must be protected from excessive heat or cold.

Watering:

Spray the foliage with water daily during the growing season. Water when the soil is moderately dry (to a depth of 1/2 to 1 inch) but do not let the soil dry out completely.

Feeding:

Simon and Schuster’s recommends feeding junipers from early spring to autumn ever 20-30 days using a slow-acting organic fertilizer. If you prefer to use chemical fertilizers, apply a half-strength solution every other week of a reasonably balanced fertilizer, such as Peter’s 20-20-20. You may wish to alternate with an acidic fertilizer such as Miracid. You should not fertilize during the hottest part of the summer (July-mid August in the northern hemisphere), or if the tree is weak or has recently (2-4 weeks) been repotted.

Pruning and wiring:

To develop the foliage, pinch out the tender new shoots using your fingers. Do not use scissors, as the cut needles will turn brown. Pinching must be done continuously during the growing season. Prune undesirable branches (especially those growing straight down from their parent branch) when repotting or during the growing season.

Wiring is best done in autumn or early winter, so that the branches can become accustomed to their new position while the tree is dormant. Wiring done at other times must be watched carefully for signs of wire cutting into the bark, and must be removed immediately if this happens. If necessary, the tree can be re-wired after removing the old wire.

Propagation:

Cuttings rooted under mist, layering.

Repotting:

Reduce the roots gradually, removing no more than one third of the roots at each repotting. Repot young trees (up to 10 years) every other year. Repot older trees every 3-4 years. Repotting is best done in spring. Junipers can also be repotted in autumn if necessary, since they enter a period of renewed root growth at that time. Extensive root pruning in autumn is probably not a good idea, however.

Simon and Schuster’s recommends 60% soil, 10% peat, and 30% coarse sand. Rémy Samson recommends 1 part loam, 1 part leaf mould, and 1 part coarse sand. Peter Chan recommends 1 part loam, 1 part peat, and 3 parts coarse sand.

The tree should be protected from wind and direct sun for a month or two after repotting.

Pests and diseases:

Junipers are a favourite victim of red spider mites. If the tree appears weak, with yellowing foliage, it may have spider mites. To check for spider mites, hold a sheet of white paper under a branch and gently shake the foliage. If the paper comes away with many small dots that move, it has spider mites. To combat spider mites, spray with insecticidal soap or a nicotine solution (which can be made by soaking tobacco in water overnight).

Compiled by Sabrina Caine Edited by Michael Johnson

Juniperus squamata

Common Name

Blue Juniper

juniperus squamata

General Information:

This juniper is notable for its striking blue-gray foliage. A number of varieties exist, including ‘Meyeri’, ‘Blue Carpet’ and ‘Blue Star’. Blue Carpet is a prostrate variety that is especially suitable for cascade and semi-cascade styles. Other varieties can be used for any style other than broom.

Lighting:

Full sun.

Temperature:

No information available.

Watering:

Spray the foliage with water daily during the growing season. Water when the soil is moderately dry (to a depth of 1/2 to 1 inch) but do not let the soil dry out completely.

Feeding:

Simon and Schuster’s recommends feeding junipers from early spring to autumn ever 20-30 days using a slow-acting organic fertilizer.

If you prefer to use chemical fertilizers, apply a half-strength solution every other week of a reasonably balanced fertilizer, such as Peter’s 20-20-20. You may wish to alternate with an acidic fertilizer such as Miracid.

You should not fertilize during the hottest part of the summer (July-mid August in the northern hemisphere), or if the tree is weak or has recently (2- 4 weeks) been repotted.

Pruning and wiring:

Reduce the roots gradually, removing no more than one third of the roots at each repotting. To develop the foliage, pinch out the tender new shoots using your fingers. Do not use scissors, as the cut needles will turn brown. Pinching must be done continuously during the growing season.

Prune undesirable branches (especially those growing straight down from their parent branch) when repotting or during the growing season.

Wiring is best done in autumn or early winter, so that the branches can become accustomed to their new position while the tree is dormant. Wiring done at other times must be watched carefully for signs of wire cutting into the bark, and must be removed immediately if this happens. If necessary, the tree can be re-wired after removing the old wire.

Propagation:

No information available.

Repotting

Repot young trees (up to 10 years) every other year. Repot older trees every 3-4 years. Repotting is best done in spring. Junipers can also be repotted in autumn if necessary, since they enter a period of renewed root growth at that time. Extensive root pruning in autumn is probably not a good idea, however.

For junipers, Simon and Schuster’s recommends 60% soil, 10% peat, and 30% coarse sand. Rémy Samson recommends 1 part loam, 1 part leaf mould, and 1 part coarse sand. Peter Chan recommends 1 part loam, 1 part peat, and 3 parts coarse sand.

The tree should be protected from wind and direct sun for a month or two after repotting.

Pests and diseases:

Junipers are a favourite victim of red spider mites. If the tree appears weak, with yellowing foliage, it may have spider mites. To check for spider mites, hold a sheet of white paper under a branch and gently shake the foliage. If the paper comes away with many small dots that move, it has spider mites. To combat spider mites, spray with insecticidal soap or a nicotine solution (which can be made by soaking tobacco in water overnight).

Compiled by Sabrina Caine

Edited by Michael Johnson and Thomas Zane 

Juniperus virginiana

Common Name:

Eastern Red Cedar

juniperus virginiana

General Information:

Red cedar is an evergreen growing 40 to 50 feet tall in an oval, columnar, or pyramidal form (very diverse) and spreading 8 to 15 feet when given a sunny location. It develops a brownish tint in winter in the north and is sometimes used in windbreaks or screens. The fruit is a blue berry on female trees and is ornamental when produced in quantity. Birds devour the fruit and ‘plant’ it along farm fences and in old abandoned fields. Some botanists do not separate J. virginiana from silicicola.

The eastern red cedar is not a true cedar (genus Cedrus), it is actually a variety of juniper. It occurs naturally as an upright tree with many small branches, curving sharply upward. Old trees often have many natural jin on the lower part of the trunk, and that branches are more nearly horizontal. The wood of the red cedar is fragrant and is used extensively for furniture. The foliage is bright green to dark green.

With sufficient early training, the red cedar can be used for most styles, though multiple-trunk styles probably require planting multiple trees close together. Cascade and semi-cascade styles could be a challenge, given the strong apex dominance of this tree.

Family:

Cupressaceae

Lighting:

Full sun or part shade. Temperature: Hardy in zone 2 through 9.

Watering:

Spray the foliage with water daily during the growing season. Water when the soil is moderately dry (to a depth of 1/2 to 1 inch) but do not let the soil dry out completely.

Feeding:

Simon and Schuster’s recommends feeding junipers from early spring to autumn ever 20-30 days using a slow-acting organic fertilizer.

If you prefer to use chemical fertilizers, apply a half-strength solution every other week of a reasonably balanced fertilizer, such as Peter’s 20-20-20. You may wish to alternate with an acidic fertilizer such as Miracid.

You should not fertilize during the hottest part of the summer (July-mid August in the northern hemisphere), or if the tree is weak or has recently (2- 4 weeks) been repotted.

Pruning and wiring:

Reduce the roots gradually, removing no more than one third of the roots at each repotting. To develop the foliage, pinch out the tender new shoots using your fingers. Do not use scissors, as the cut needles will turn brown. Pinching must be done continuously during the growing season.

Prune undesirable branches (especially those growing straight down from their parent branch) when repotting or during the growing season.

Wiring is best done in autumn or early winter, so that the branches can become accustomed to their new position while the tree is dormant. Wiring done at other times must be watched carefully for signs of wire cutting into the bark, and must be removed immediately if this happens. If necessary, the tree can be re-wired after removing the old wire.

Propagation:

Cuttings or layering.

Repotting:

Repot young trees (up to 10 years) every other year. Repot older trees every 3-4 years. Repotting is best done in spring. Junipers can also be repotted in autumn if necessary, since they enter a period of renewed root growth at that time. Extensive root pruning in autumn is probably not a good idea, however. For junipers, Simon and Schuster’s recommends 60% soil, 10% peat, and 30% coarse sand. Rémy Samson recommends 1 part loam, 1 part leaf mould, and 1 part coarse sand. Peter Chan recommends 1 part loam, 1 part peat, and 3 parts coarse sand.

The tree should be protected from wind and direct sun for a month or two after repotting.

Pests and diseases:

Pests: Bagworm caterpillars occasionally web foliage and debris together to make bags up to two inches long. The insects live in the bags and emerge to feed on the foliage. Use sprays of Bacillus thuringiensis. The insects can also be picked off the plants by hand. Juniper scale causes yellowed needles, and infected branches fail to produce new growth. The scale is round and at first white, later turning gray or black. The Juniper webworm webs twigs and needles together, causing them to brown and die. The larva is 1/2-inch-long and is brown with darker stripes. The larvae are often in the densest part of the plant and can go unnoticed. Mites cause stippled and bronzed foliage. Diseases: Twig blights cause death and browning of twigs tips. The diseases may progress down the stem killing the whole branch. Small lesions may be seen at the base of dead tissue. Prune out dead branch tips. Die back from Kabatina blight appears in early spring, from Phomopsis in summer. Three rust diseases seen most often are cedar-apple rust, hawthorn rust, and quince rust. The most common is cedar-apple rust. On Juniper the first two diseases form galls and orange jelly-like horns in spring. The horns are most likely to form following periods of rainy, warm weather. Spores formed in the horns infect the alternate host. The diseases are more serious on the alternate host than Juniper. Prune out the spore horns when seen in the spring. Do not plant near hawthorns, apples, or crabapples. Junipers are not tolerant of ice coatings. Expect die back when Junipers are covered with ice for several days. Removing the ice is impractical.

Junipers are a favourite victim of red spider mites. If the tree appears weak, with yellowing foliage, it may have spider mites. To check for spider mites, hold a sheet of white paper under a branch and gently shake the foliage. If the paper comes away with many small dots that move, it has spider mites. To combat spider mites, spray with insecticidal soap or a nicotine solution (which can be made by soaking tobacco in water overnight).

Bibliography:

USDA Fact Sheet ST-327

Compiled by Sabrina Caine

Edited by Thomas L. Zane 

Picea sp.

Common Name:

Spruce

picea abies

General information:

35 species of this evergreen are widely available in the US. Many varieties are tall, conical to pyramidal trees, most familiar as a popular Christmas tree. Some species tend towards globular growth, and slow-growing spruces can be used as shrubs. Spruce has scaling or flaking bark, and, in general, its needles are short enough for use in most sizes of bonsai, with many dwarf varieties available.

Due to the branch formation in whorls and natural tendency of some spruce species towards pyramidal growth, the spruce can be a difficult bonsai subject. It enjoys popularity, however, because it makes a stately bonsai when properly styled, and material is readily available.

Needle like leaves are persistent for several seasons, but much shorter than those of pine; born singly and closely in spirals; four-sided or diamond- shaped in cross section. Each leaf appears narrow at the base. Flowers appear as small cones, male and female on the same tree. Spruce have a pendent woody cone with thin, smooth or ragged-edged scales.

Lighting:

Full sun, but needs shade from the midday sun in summer, or needle browning will result.

Temperature:

These northern trees prefer cool temperatures, although small or young bonsai may need frost protection. Many species are hardy to zone 3 or colder, although there are some which grow well only as far north as zone 6. Picea glauca ‘Conica’ is capable of withstanding heat and drought better than other spruce bonsai. In general, spruces like wind and need good ventilation.

Watering:

Spruces prefer moisture, but not waterlogged soil. Reduce watering in winter, but never allow the soil to dry out completely. Misting is appreciated spring-fall.

Feeding:

Every two weeks, spring-mid-autumn, using liquid bonsai food or half-strength general purpose fertilizer. In hot areas, discontinue feeding during the heat of summer. Apply a chelated iron supplement several times yearly.

Pruning and wiring:

Popular both as single specimen trees and when grown in forest plantings - ‘Little Gem’ spruce is especially popular for Saikei. Jin and shari look especially nice on spruce bonsai. When purchasing spruce for bonsai purposes, be careful to avoid grafted trees as these will form unsightly bulges at the base. Suitable for all styles except broom, and for all sizes, with small sizes best reserved for dwarf varieties. New growth should be pinched, not clipped, several times in spring, when shoots are about 1 inch long, leaving 4-5 clusters of needles. Do major pruning in early fall. Never remove all needles. Wire between late autumn and winter. Picea glauca ‘Conica’ is a slow-growing specimen. To encourage compact, dense growth on it, pinch out the apical buds as they emerge and cut back long shoots. It does not set as well when wired as other trees. It is often necessary to exaggerate the bend desired when wiring to end up with proper branch placement.

Propagation:

Seeds need cold pre-treatment, and are generally sown in winter or early spring. Seeds may be collected from cones between September and January, late August-September for P. glauca. Remove seeds as soon as they appear at the edge of the scales, but allow them to mature in the cones as long as possible. Softwood cuttings may be taken in late autumn or early spring, but rooting is tricky and may take up to two years.

Repotting:

In general, repot every second year in early to mid-spring, before new growth expands, or in early fall. Older specimens (+10 years) may be repotted every 5 years. P. Abies may only need repotting every 3-4 years. Use fast-draining soil mix, and prune roots by 1/3 or less. Spruce, in general, need to keep a decent-sized root ball, and may need to be planted in a deep pot to achieve this. Protect from full sun for a few weeks after repotting. P. jezoensis should be allowed to rest for 3 months after transplanting before wiring. Picea engelmannii is one of the toughest spruces, and is forgiving of mistakes made due to over-enthusiastic root/branch pruning.

Pests and diseases:

Mites are the worst problem, and in hot weather they can build to populations which require control. They can be a major problem in summer after hot dry weather, especially near concrete, buildings, and other urban surfaces which reflect heat. The small insects can’t be readily seen with the naked eye. The first noticeable symptoms are yellowing at the base of the oldest needles on infested branches. Close inspection with a magnifying glass will confirm the presence of the mites.

Two gall-forming insects commonly attack Spruce. Eastern Spruce gall adelgid forms pineapple like galls at the base of twigs. Galls caused by Cooley’s Spruce gall adelgid look like miniature cones at the branch tips. The gall adelgids do not kill trees unless the infestation is heavy. A few galls on a large tree are not serious.

Bagworms make a sack by webbing needles and debris together. Small numbers may be picked off by hand or use Bacillus thuringiensis.

In northern climates, Spruce budworm larvae feed on developing buds and young needles. The yellowish brown caterpillars are difficult to see.

The Spruce needle miner makes a small hole in the base of a needle then mines out the center. Dead needles are webbed together and can be found on infested twigs. Hand pick these from the tree to reduce future damage.

Pine needle scale is a white, elongated scale found feeding on the needles only. Populations would have to be quite high to cause major damage.

Sawfly larvae may feed on the needles. One infestation will usually not kill the tree, but there may be two or more generations per year.

Borers can infest trees which are weakened by other problems. Diseases: Cytospora canker infects a branch then eventually kills it. The lower branches are attacked first then progressively higher branches. The needles turn brown to reddish brown and eventually drop off. White resin patches are seen on infected branches. Prune off infected branches. Water Spruces during dry weather.

Spruce may be attacked by needle casts. One causes needles to turn yellow or brown and drop off. Another affects the lowest needles first then moves up the tree. Infected needles are a mottled yellow.

Several rust diseases attack Spruce but these are rarely seen. Infected needles turn yellow and drop off.

Some species suitable for bonsai:

Picea abies: Norway spruce - With its red brown bark, conical shape, and shiny green needles, Norway spruce is traditionally used as a Christmas tree. Its needles are 3/4 inch long, and it grows to 90 feet in nature. It survives at high altitudes, up to 6600 ft, and is hardy in zones 2B through 7A.

Picea abies albertiana ‘conica’.

Picea abies ‘Echiniformis’: dwarf spruce - a slow-growing form with tightly congested foliage.

Picea abies ‘Little Gem’: dwarf spruce - an excellent variety for use in Saikei due to its tiny needles and small, compact growth.

Picea abies ‘Maxwellii’: Norway spruce, dwarf spruce - This is a natural dwarf which is hardy to zone 3. It has coarse, spiny needles. Picea abies ‘Mucronata’: dwarf spruce.

Picea abies ‘Nidiformis’: bird’s nest spruce - This dwarf has bright, fresh green buds and grows to 3 ft.

Picea abies ‘Pumila’ - This variety has small, dense foliage which makes it desirable for bonsai culture. It grows very slowly - as little as 1 foot in a 25 year period.

Picea abies ‘Pumila Nigra’ - small, deep green foliage, with light green buds in spring. Takes well to pot culture in hot, humid areas. Very similar to the hard-to-find P. glehnii.

Picea abies ‘Pygmaea’: pygmy Norway spruce.

Picea abies ‘Variegata’: white spruce.

Picea engelmannii: Blue Englemann spruce, dwarf Alberta spruce - A native of western North America, it is hardy to zone 3. It has soft needles which smell of camphor when crushed, and orange-brown cones.

Picea glauca: white spruce - This tree has prickly blue-green needles which grow to 3/4 inch, and 2 inch green cones which ripen to brown. Hardy in zones 2-5, it is loved for its strong, refreshing aroma. It does not tolerate hot summers well.

Picea glauca ‘Albertina conica’: Alberta spruce - Conical, with bright green foliage, this is a slow-growing dwarf.

Picea glauca conica: white spruce - Hardy in zones 4-6, although survival in zone 2 has been reported, this common bonsai choice withstands heat and drought better than other spruce. It is very susceptible to spider mites.

Picea glauca densata: Black Hills spruce - This slow-growing spruce can survive drier conditions than most of the genera.

Picea glehnii: Sakhalin spruce, common Ezo spruce, Edo spruce, silver fir - very popular in Japan, but may be difficult to get due to export regulations. It has a slender conical habit, with red-brown flaking bark and bluish-green needles.

Picea glehnii ‘Yatsubusa’: dwarf Saghalin spruce - popular in Japan for Saikei, this spruce is very similar to P. Abies ‘Little Gem.’

Picea jezoensis: Yezo spruce, jezo spruce, Hondo spruce, Yeddo spruce - Hardy to zone 5, this variety, popular in Japan, prefers semi- shade. It is recognizable by its dark green needles with white undersides, and its light brown young shoots. It is reputed to grow poorly, however, in the eastern US.

Picea jezoensis hondoensis: Hondo spruce - This variety has shorter needles than the species.

Picea mariana (also called Picea nigra): black spruce.

Picea mariana ‘Nana’: dwarf black spruce - This dwarf has gray-green needles and cones less than 2 inches long. It is native from Pennsylvania north through Canada. Its needles are a scant 1/2 inch. Picea omorika: Serbian spruce - The Serbian spruce, found growing between Ontario and Wisconsin in the US, is recognizable by its narrow habit and distinctive spire. There are dwarf and weeping forms, and it is hardy in zones 4-7.

Picea orientalis: Oriental spruce, Caucasian spruce - An interesting bonsai subject due to its short needles (1/4-1/3 inch) and purple cones, the Caucasian spruce is hardy to zone 5 and can grow to 50 ft. in the wild. Found between Ohio and Ontario, it has pale gray bark and deep green needles. Hardy in zones 5-7, this is one of the best spruces for hot, humid areas.

Picea oungens: Montgomery spruce - This spruce has blue needles. Its compact growth makes it an appropriate bonsai choice.

Picea polita: spruce.

Picea pungens: Colorado spruce, Colorado blue spruce, blue spruce - a blue-gray to blue-green tree, it can grow to 150 feet and survives at altitudes up to 11,000 ft.! It is the most widely grown spruce in North America.

Picea pungens ‘River Road’: blue spruce - zone 3.

Picea rubens: red spruce - Red spruce can grow up to 100 ft., and is comfortable at altitudes up to 6000 ft. It has rich purple-brown bark which turns red-brown on older trees, or gray at high altitudes. Its bright green needles smell of apples or candlewax. It often hybridizes with P. mariana, producing a more spreading tree with darker needles.

Picea sitchensis: Sitka spruce - The largest, fastest growing spruce in the world, the Sitka spruce can grow up to 300 feet! It has gently arched branches and prickly needles, and grows in a broad range from Alaska south to Washington state.

Picea torana: tiger-tail spruce - zone 6.

Bibliography:

Jahn (ed.) “The Simon and Schuster Guide to Bonsai” Murata’s “Four Seasons of Bonsai”

Owen’s “Bonsai Identifier”

Resnick’s “Bonsai”

Samson’s “Creative Art of Bonsai”

Tomlinson’s “Complete Book of Bonsai”

Species information from Mitchell’s “American Nature Guides: Trees,” and Thomas (ed.) “The Hearst Garden Guide to Trees and Shrubs”, and “Trees of the Eastern United States and Canada” by William M. Harlow.

USDA Fact Sheet ST-448

Compiled by Sabrina Caine Edited by Thomas L. Zane

Pinus clausa

Common Name:

Sand Pine

pinus clausa

General information:

This native North American pine is usually seen as a scrubby tree, capable of reaching 100 feet in height but more often seen 15 to 40 feet tall, with a slow growth rate (Fig. 1). The supple, two needles in a sheath, brilliant green evergreen leaves no more than three inches long, and the plant’s ability to thrive in almost any soil make Sand Pine a good choice for use as a Christmas tree, with proper shearing. The narrow 2 to 3.5-inch-long, spiny cones persist for quite a while on the tree, often becoming embedded in the wood of the twigs. The bark is a reddish brown, and the trunk is straight and long. The branches are twiggy. New growth will sprout on hard wood.

Sand pine lends itself to informal upright. It also may be beautiful in the abstract style, bunjin or literati.

Family:

Pinaceae

Lighting:

Enjoys full sun in the winter, (November - April) All bonsai must have filtered sun in the summer in Florida.

Temperature:

Zones 7 through 10. Some freezing is tolerated but not extreme heat.

Watering:

Unlike Japanese black pine, it enjoys plenty of water, summer and winter, after it has been taught to like water.

Feeding:

Fertilize every three months using a weak solution of fish emulsion.

Repotting:

The winter months, December, January and February are the safest times in Florida. Do not prune the branches extensively if the sap is flowing. This weakens the tree. It may also, kill it. Pine trees often produce a white mould in the soil. This is not a disease, but the sign of a healthy tree and should not be touched. Care, however, must be taken, it also could be white grubs. Grubs can be detected, because they move. It may be very happy for four or five years, before it needs new soil.

Grows well in a fertile sandy mixture. Use as much sterilized soil as possible. It is salt tolerant, and can be found in areas 20 - 30 feet above sea level. When collecting try to get as much of the soil as possible. If the soil falls off the roots, replace it immediately. Plastic bags may be used, so water may be added. Newly-potted bonsai should be protected from the wind and the sun in Florida for 3-4 weeks. When new growth starts, then the bonsai may be moved to morning sun. After two more weeks sand pines may be moved to full sun. When repotting use half sharp sand and half soil.

Pests and diseases:

Red Spider will turn the needles to a grey-green colour. Most of the time these trees are very healthy. If they become dry the needles will turn brown, or if it is root bound.

Bibliography:

Sand Pine

Florida Bonsai VII:1:22-23,29-35, XVII:1:51-52 USDA Fact Sheet ST-458

Compiled by Thomas L Zane  

Pinus mugo

Common Name:

Mugo Pine (Swiss Mountain Pine)

pinus mugo

General Information:

Mugo Pine is a shrub or small, round or broad pyramidal plant 4 to 10 feet tall which grows best in sun or partial shade in moist loam. It comes from Alpine Europe. The dark green, 1 - 1 1/2 inches long, stiff needles of this two-needle Pine are held on the tree for more than four years making this one of the more dense Pines suitable for a screen planting. Most other Pines are not suited for screens since they loose their inner needles and lower branches as they grow older. Since there seems to be great variability in height among individual trees, select nursery plants which have the form which you desire. When selecting a Mugo Pine to grow into a tree, choose one with a central leader; if looking for a more dwarf type Mugo Pine choose among the many compact selections.

Family:

Pinaceae

Lighting:

Full sun. Turn the tree from time to time so that all parts of the foliage receive adequate light.

Temperature:

Zones 2 through 7. Will tolerate freezing but roots need to be protected.

Watering:

May dry out between waterings. Fast draining soil to avoid root rot. Spray the foliage with water daily during the summer.

Feeding:

Simon and Schuster’s recommends feeding once a month in spring and autumn using a slow-acting organic fertilizer. If you prefer to feed using chemical fertilizers, feed the tree once every two weeks with a half- strength solution of a fertilizer meant for acid-loving plants, such as Miracid. Suspend feeding for two months during the hot part of summer (July and August in the northern hemisphere). Do not feed if the tree is ailing or has been repotted recently (2-4 weeks).

Pruning and wiring:

Initial pruning should be carried out at the same time as repotting. When repotting, be sure to leave a good root system. Subsequent pruning can be carried out when wiring in the fall. Pinch by shortening new shoots (candles) by two thirds in the spring, before the needles open. Pinch the candles in two stages, pinching the most vigorous candles first and a week later pinching the weaker candles. In the fall, reduce the number of buds on each branch to two to encourage ramification. Also in the fall, thin the needles by removing any needles that are too long or that are growing downward. Thin more at the apex of the tree and less as you work down the tree. This will allow light to reach the lower branches and will slow the growth of the apex.

Wiring should be done in late fall or early winter, and the wire removed 6-8 months later at most.

With healthy trees, it is possible to remove all the new candles every other year, before they harden. The following fall, buds will appear where the candles were removed. This serves to shorten the internodes and encourage more dense foliage.

Propagation:

No information available.

Repotting:

In early spring or late summer, every 2-3 years for young specimens and every 3-5 years for older ones. Pines need deep, well drained soil, so plant in a fairly deep container. Simon and Schuster’s recommends 50% soil and 50% coarse sand. Rémy Samson recommends 1 part leaf mould, 1 part loam, and 1 part coarse sand. Peter Chan recommends 1 part loam, 1 part peat, and 3 parts coarse sand.

Pines and other conifers grow in association with a symbiotic fungus which grows in the root ball of the tree. If this fungus is not present, the tree may die. For this reason, pines and other conifers should never be bare-rooted, unless steps are taken to re-introduce the fungus to the repotted plant, such as making a slurry (thin mud) of the old soil and pouring it over the newly potted soil.

Some experts feel that it is more important to be sure that the tree always has a healthy root system with sufficient feeder roots than to worry about symbiotic fungi. They feel that trees are more likely to die from having their root systems reduced too much at once than from not having the fungus present. Certainly it is good advice in any case to be sure the tree has sufficient roots.

Pests and diseases:

Pests:

Mugo Pine is a favoured host for Pine sawfly and Pine needle scale. Some adelgids will appear as white cottony growths on the bark. All types produce honeydew which may support sooty mould. European Pine shoot moth causes young shoots to fall over. Infested shoots may exude resin. The insects can be found in the shoots during May. Pesticides are only effective when caterpillars are moving from overwintering sites to new shoots. This occurs in mid to late April or when needle growth is about half developed.

Bark beetles bore into trunks making small holes scattered up and down the trunk. Stressed trees are more susceptible to attack. The holes look like shot holes. Keep trees healthy.

Sawfly larvae caterpillars are variously coloured but generally feed in groups on the needles. Some sawfly larvae will flex or rear back in unison when disturbed. Sawflies can cause rapid defoliation of branches if left unchecked.

Pine needle miner larvae feed inside needles causing them to turn yellow and dry up.

Pine needle scale is a white, elongated scale found on the needles. Pine tortoise scale is brown and found on twigs. Depending on the scale, horticultural oil may control overwintering stages.

Pine spittle bug lives and hides in a foamy mass.

Spruce mites cause damage to older needles, and are usually active in the spring and fall. Mites cause older needles to become yellowed or stippled.

Zimmerman Pine moth larvae bore into the trunk. The only outward symptoms may be death of parts of the tree or masses of hardened pitch on the branches.

The larvae of Pine weevils feed on the sapwood of the leaders. The leader is killed and the shoots replacing it are distorted. First symptoms are pearl white drops of resin on the leaders. The leaders die when the shoot is girdled as adults emerge in August. Prune out and burn infested terminals before July 15.

Pine wilt nematode can kill trees.

Diseases:

Diplodia tip blight is a common problem and Mugo Pine is very sensitive. This pine is susceptible to rusts. Canker diseases may rarely cause die back of landscape Pines. Keep trees healthy and prune out the infected branches. Needle cast is common on small trees and plantation or forest trees. Infected needles yellow and fall off.

Bibliography:

USDA Fact Sheet ST-467

Compiled by Sabrina Caine Edited by Thomas L. Zane  

Pinus parviflora

Common Name:

Japanese White Pine

pinus parviflora

General information:

Japanese White Pine creates a striking landscape element wherever it is used. Often seen as a dense, conical form when young, Japanese White Pine develops into a 25 to 50-foot-tall, graceful, irregularly-shaped tree, with an equal or greater spread, and a broad, flattened canopy. The 1 to 2.5-inch-long needles are stiff and twisted, forming blue/green tufts of foliage at branch tips, and creating an overall fine texture to the tree’s silhouette. The brownish-red cones are one to four inches long and persist on the tree for six to seven years. The needles grow in groups of five, so this tree is also known as “five-needle pine”, especially the cultivar P. pentaphylla.

Family:

Pinaceae

Lighting:

Full sun.

Temperature:

Zone 4B to 7A. Northern climates, will not grow in southern USA.

Watering:

As with other pines, good drainage is essential.

Feeding:

Simon and Schuster’s recommends feeding once a month from early to late spring and from end of summer to late autumn with a slow- acting organic fertilizer, and applying chelated iron 2-3 times per year.

If you prefer to use chemical fertilizers, feed every other week during the same times with a half-strength solution of a fertilizer for acid-loving plants, such as Miracid. You may wish to alternate with a balanced fertilizer such as Peter’s 20-20-20 depending on the acidity of your soil mix.

Pruning and wiring:

The root system should be pruned gradually in the coarse of repotting, so as to always leave a strong root system. Branch pruning and wiring should be done in late autumn, and the wire left on the tree for 6-8 months at most. Pinch new shoots in spring to 1/3 of their length.

Every 1-2 years it is possible to remove all of the new shoots in late spring, if the tree is healthy and well-fed. This will result in buds forming in the fall at the sites where the shoots were removed. The reason this might be done is to form very short internodes on the branches.

Propagation:

Seeds, layering.

Repotting:

Repot every 2 or 3 years for young trees (up to 10 years) or every 3 to 5 years for older trees. Repotting can be done in spring before the candles open or in late summer or early autumn, after the heat of summer has passed. These are the two periods of greatest root growth in pines.

Because of the rugged quality of the five-needle pine, a strong rectangular pot should be used. Pines need a deep root system, and five-needle pines especially need a deep pot to avoid uprooting by wind, due to their dense foliage. Simon and Schuster’s recommends 50% soil, 10% peat, and 40% coarse sand. Rémy Samson recommends 1 part leaf mould, 1 part loam, and 1 part coarse sand. Peter Chan recommends 3 parts coarse sand, 1 part peat, and 1 part loam.

Pines and other conifers grow in association with a symbiotic fungus which grows in the root ball of the tree. If this fungus is not present, the tree may die. For this reason, pines and other conifers should never be bare-rooted, unless steps are taken to re-introduce the fungus to the repotted plant, such as making a slurry (thin mud) of the old soil and pouring it over the newly potted soil.

Some experts feel that it is more important to be sure that the tree always has a healthy root system with sufficient feeder roots than to worry about symbiotic fungi. They feel that trees are more likely to die from having their root systems reduced too much at once than from not having the fungus present. Certainly it is good advice in any case to be sure the tree has sufficient roots.

Pests and diseases:

Aphids, mealy bug & red spider mites, to name a few.

Bibliography:

USDA Fact Sheet ST-470

Compiled by Sabrina Caine Edited by Thomas L. Zane 

Pinus strobus

Common Name:

Eastern White Pine

pinus strobus

General information:

Eastern White Pine has soft blue-green 3 to 5 inches long needles borne in groups of five although foliage colour varies greatly from one tree to the next. It is the only five-needle pine native to the eastern part of North America and is the state tree of Maine and Missouri. Some specimens keep the bluish colour throughout the winter, others loose it. Although it can grow 100 to 120 feet tall with a three to five-foot-diameter trunk and spread 50 to 60 feet, it is typically seen from 50 to 80 feet tall in landscapes. Growth is very rapid at first but slows down with age. Several branches on young trees normally originate from the same point on the trunk forming a tree appearing to be built of layers of foliage. Although young trees are pyramidal and usually grow with one central leader, the layers (or whorls) of horizontal branches give White Pine a distinctive appearance in middle and old age. The gray bark on the trunk and large branches remains unusually smooth through middle age, breaking up into elongated blocks in old age. The flowers, male and female, occur separately as small cones on the same tree. The cones are slender and thornless, 4 to 8 inches long, and tapering.

Family:

Pinaceae

Lighting:

Full sun.

Temperature:

Zone 3B through 7. Watering: No information available.

Feeding:

Simon and Schuster’s recommends feeding 5-needle pines once a month from early to late spring and from end of summer to late autumn with a slow-acting organic fertilizer, and applying chelated iron 2-3 times per year.

If you prefer to use chemical fertilizers, feed every other week during the same times with a half-strength solution of a fertilizer for acid-loving plants, such as Miracid. You may wish to alternate with a balanced fertilizer such as Peter’s 20-20-20 depending on the acidity of your soil mix.

Pruning and wiring:

The root system should be pruned gradually in the coarse of repotting, so as to always leave a strong root system. Branch pruning and wiring should be done in late autumn, and the wire left on the tree for 6-8 months at most. Pinch new shoots in spring to 1/3 of their length.

Conventional wisdom indicates that the needles of Pinus strobus do not reduce well, making it suitable mainly for larger bonsai.

Every 1-2 years it is possible to remove all of the new shoots in late spring, if the tree is healthy and well-fed. This will result in buds forming in the fall at the sites where the shoots were removed. The reason this might be done is to form very short internodes on the branches.

Propagation:

Seed.

Repotting:

Repot every 2 or 3 years for young trees (up to 10 years) or every 3 to 5 years for older trees. Repotting can be done in spring before the candles open or in late summer or early autumn, after the heat of summer has passed. These are the two periods of greatest root growth in pines.

Because of the rugged quality of the five-needle pine, a strong rectangular pot should be used. Pines need a deep root system, and five-needle pines especially need a deep pot to avoid uprooting by wind, due to their dense foliage. Simon and Schuster’s recommends 50% soil, 10% peat, and 40% coarse sand. Rémy Samson recommends 1 part leaf mold, 1 part loam, and 1 part coarse sand. Peter Chan recommends 3 parts coarse sand, 1 part peat, and 1 part loam.

Pines and other conifers grow in association with a symbiotic fungus which grows in the root ball of the tree. If this fungus is not present, the tree may die. For this reason, pines and other conifers should never be bare-rooted, unless steps are taken to re-introduce the fungus to the repotted plant, such as making a slurry (thin mud) of the old soil and pouring it over the newly potted soil.

Some experts feel that it is more important to be sure that the tree always has a healthy root system with sufficient feeder roots than to worry about symbiotic fungi. They feel that trees are more likely to die from having their root systems reduced too much at once than from not having the fungus present. Certainly it is good advice in any case to be sure the tree has sufficient roots.

Pests and diseases:

Pests:

White Pine weevil is probably the biggest problem. The larvae of White Pine weevils feed on the sapwood of the leaders and this is devastating to the tree. The leader is killed and the many shoots replacing it form a bushy head. First symptoms are pearl white drops of resin on the leaders. The leaders die when the shoot is girdled as adults emerge in summer.

Some adelgids will appear as white cottony growths on the bark. All types produce honeydew which may support sooty mould. European Pine shoot moth causes young shoots to fall over. Infested shoots may exude resin. The insects can be found in the shoots during spring.

Bark beetles bore into trunks making small holes scattered up and down the trunk. Stressed trees are more susceptible to attack. The holes look like shotholes. Keep trees healthy.

Sawfly larvae caterpillars are variously coloured but generally feed in groups on the needles. Some sawfly larvae will flex or rear back in unison when disturbed. Sawflies can cause rapid defoliation of branches if left unchecked.

Pine needle miner larvae feed inside needles causing them to turn yellow and dry up. Pine needle scale is a white, elongated scale found on the needles. Pine tortoise scale is brown and found on twigs. Depending on the scale, horticultural oil may control overwintering stages.

Pine spittle bug lives and hides in a foamy mass.

Spruce mites cause damage to older needles, and are usually active in the spring and fall. Mites cause older needles to become yellowed or stippled. Zimmerman Pine moth larvae bore into the trunk. The only outward symptoms may be death of parts of the tree or masses of hardened pitch on the branches.

Diseases:

Procerva root rot kills many White Pines planted off site. Avoid planting in dry sites and clay or alkaline soil.

White Pine blister rust attacks White Pine and uses currant as an alternate host. European Black Currant, the favoured alternate host, may be banned from certain areas. Other Currants, particularly Red Currant should not be grown within 300 feet of Pines. Infected branches may be pruned off. Be sure to select White Pine trees certified to be rust-resistant.

Canker diseases may rarely cause die back of landscape Pines. Keep trees healthy and prune out the infected branches.

Needle cast is common on small trees and plantation or forest trees. Infected needles yellow and fall off.

White Pine decline is used to describe the slow decline of trees planted in dry, clay soils low in organic matter. Plants with this disorder have only a small cluster of needles at the ends of the branches.

Bibliography:

“Trees of the Eastern United States and Canada” by William M. Harlow, McGraw Hill, 1942.

USDA Fact Sheet ST-473

Compiled by Sabrina Caine Edited by Thomas L. Zane 

Pinus thunbergii

Common Name:

Black Pine

pinus thunbergii

General Information:

An excellent, small, irregularly-shaped Pine, the size and shape of Japanese Black Pine is variable reaching a height of 25 feet and a spread of 20 to 35 feet. The exceptionally dark green, five to seven- inch-long twisted needles are borne in groups of two. Although trees may or may not have a central leader prune to develop one if the tree will be grown to a large size. Branches are held horizontally in a picturesque silhouette and sometimes can outgrow the central leader forming an attractive multi-stemmed specimen tree. Black pine is a native of Japan. It prefers but does not insist on colder climates; needs special care if grown in the warmer regions. It has rough bark and dark needles.

Occasionally a black pine will have a “witches’ broom” growth on a branch caused by a fungus infection. It is a thick clump of branchlets having dwarfed foliage. Trees propagated from witches’ brooms make ideal bonsai subjects as they are characterized by compact foliage and needles which are very short and erect. Bonsai propagated from witch’s broom stock are called “Yatsubusa”.

Family:

Pinaceae

Lighting:

They require full sun and good air circulation. Turn the tree from time to time so that light reaches all parts of the foliage.

Temperature:

Zone 6 through 8. The black pine does not like extreme heat, especially in the area of its roots. Spray the foliage with water daily during the summer.

Watering:

May be allowed to go dry between waterings. Needs good drainage.

Feeding:

Fertilize with an acid based fertilizer.

Pruning and wiring:

Do pruning during the early growing season. On all 2- needle pines, begin pinching at the end of spring when the buds have matured. First pinch the undesired weak buds and a week later pinch the undesired strong ones. (Just opposite for 5-needle varieties.) Then, as a result of this first pinching, selectively remove buds in the weak areas, leaving only the biggest and strongest. In the strongest areas leave the weak buds, removing the biggest and strongest. Remove needles growing from the top and bottom of branches, leaving only lateral needles. Every other spring, if the tree is healthy, you can remove all of the new candles. The following fall, buds will appear where the candles were removed. This serves to greatly shorten the internodes and increase foliage density.

Propagation:

Black pines may also be grown from seeds sown in sand in early April. Seeds should be soaked in water for two days to hasten germination. Be sure to discard any seeds which are floating in the water. Black pines may also be propagated by grafting and from cuttings.

Repotting:

Repot in Spring before the buds begin to swell. A soil mix of coarse sand, calcinated clay and peat works well. The container may have to be larger than aesthetics dictate so the feeder roots do not dry out and die at the end of a summer day. Don’t under pot a black pine. To take up nourishment, pines need to have a special type of fungus in the soil around their roots. This fungus appears as a white, stringy material. When repotting, make sure some of this helpful fungus is included in the new soil mix.

Pests and diseases:

Pest:

Usually none serious, except Pine wilt nematode in the east and tip moth on recently transplanted Pines.

The Maskell scale has recently devastated large numbers of trees in New Jersey.

Some adelgids will appear as white cottony growths on the bark. All types produce honeydew which may support sooty mould. European Pine shoot moth causes young shoots to fall over. Infested shoots may exude resin. The insects can be found in the shoots during May. Pesticides are only effective when caterpillars are moving from overwintering sites to new shoots. This occurs in mid to late April or when needle growth is about half developed.

Bark beetles bore into trunks making small holes scattered up and down the trunk. The holes look like shotholes. Stressed trees are more susceptible to attack. Keep trees healthy.

Sawfly larvae caterpillars are variously coloured but generally feed in groups on the needles. Some sawfly larvae will flex or rear back in unison when disturbed. Sawflies can cause rapid defoliation of branches if left unchecked.

Pine needle miner larvae feed inside needles causing them to turn yellow and dry up.

Pine needle scale is a white, elongated scale found on the needles. Pine tortoise scale is brown and found on twigs. Depending on the scale, horticultural oil may control overwintering stages.

Pine spittle bug lives and hides in a foamy mass.

Zimmerman Pine moth larvae bore into the trunk. The only outward symptoms may be death of parts of the tree or masses of hardened pitch on the branches.

The larvae of Pine weevils feed on the sapwood of the leaders. The leader is killed and the shoots replacing it are distorted. First symptoms are pearl white drops of resin on the leaders. The leaders die when the shoot is girdled as adults emerge in summer.

Aphids, mealy bug & red spider. Scale, shoot-tip moths and beetles may attack the tree and can best be controlled with a systemic insecticide. Do a preventive fungicide spray every two to three weeks with Benomyl® or Daconil®.

Diseases:

This pine is resistant to Diplodia tip blight.

Bibliography:

“Chatting with the Master: Tosh Saburomaru on Black Pines”, Florida Bonsai, VI, 3:5-7.

“Creating Small-Size Black Pine Bonsai” by David DeGroot, Florida Bonsai, XI, 4:9 16.

“The Training of Japanese Black Pine” by David DeGroot, Florida Bonsai, X, 3:30-47.

“Why Did My Black Pine Die?” by Terry Davis, Florida Bonsai, XIV, 3:3-6. Florida Bonsai IV:4:5-7,V:4:12-14

USDA Fact Sheet ST-480

Compiled by Thomas L. Zane 

Pinus virginiana

Common Name:

Virginia Pine

pinus virginiana

General information:

This scrubby North American native tree is most often found growing in the poorest sites and will easily adapt to most soil conditions, except alkaline soils. Capable of reaching up to 70 feet in height, Virginia Pine is more often seen from 20 to 40 feet in height with a 20 to 35-foot spread. The yellowish-green, 1.5 to 3-inch-long, flexible, evergreen needles are joined by the numerous, mature, prickly cones. The thin, orange/brown bark becomes ridged and furrowed on older trees, and is often seen due to the open branching habit.

The Virginia pine is in some ways esthetically similar to the Japanese Black Pine, but has smaller needles and does not grow as thick a trunk. Both have purplish, flaking bark, needles in pairs, and small cones that stay on the tree.

Family:

Pinaceae

Lighting:

Full Sun. Turn the tree from time to time so that light reaches all parts of the foliage. Temperature: Zones 5 through 8.

Watering:

As with any pine, good drainage is essential. This pine, in its natural habitat, grows on poor dry soils.

Feeding:

Feed once a month from early spring to autumn using a slow- acting organic fertilizer, and applying chelated iron twice a year. If you prefer to feed using chemical fertilizers, feed the tree once every two weeks with a half-strength solution of a fertilizer meant for acid-loving plants, such as Miracid. If the foliage does not maintain a nice dark green color, you may need to treat with chelated iron to make up for an iron deficiency.

Whichever feeding method you use, do not feed during the hottest months (July and August in the northern hemisphere), or if the tree is ailing or has been repotted recently (2-4 weeks).

Pruning and wiring:

Initial pruning and positioning of the roots should ideally be done at the same time as the first major pruning of the top of the tree. Subsequent pruning of the branches can be done when wiring. Wiring is best done in the fall, so that the branches will have time to become accustomed to their new position while the tree is dormant. If wiring is done in the spring or summer, the wire must be checked frequently for signs that it is cutting into the bark. If this happens, the wire must be removed and if necessary the branch should be re-wired.

To develop the foliage, shorten the new shoots (candles) by snapping them off with the fingers just before the needles start to open up in spring, leaving 1/2 to 1 inch of shoot. Shorten the candles in two stages. First shorten the strongest candles and one week later, shorten the weakest candles. To encourage good ramification, reduce the number of end buds on each branch to two in the fall. Also in the fall, thin the needles by removing all downward growing needles and needles that are too large, removing needles from the strongest shoots first. Remove the most needles from the apex of the tree, and remove fewer needles as you work down the tree. This allows light to reach the lower branches, keeping them strong, and slows the growth of the apex.

Every other spring, if the tree is healthy, you can remove all of the new candles. The following fall, buds will appear where the candles were removed. This serves to greatly shorten the internodes and increase foliage density.

Spray the foliage with water daily during the summer.

Propagation:

Seed, layering.

Repotting:

Repot in spring, before the candles open, or in late summer, after the heat of summer has passed. These are the two periods of strongest root growth for pines. The Virginia pine is fast-growing, so repotting should be relatively frequent, at least every 2-3 years for young (less than 10 years) trees and every 3-5 years for older ones. Pines need deep, well drained soil, so plant in a fairly deep container. Simon and Schuster’s recommends 40% soil, 10% peat, and 50% coarse sand. Rémy Samson recommends 1 part leaf mold, 1 part loam, and 1 part coarse sand. Peter Chan recommends 1 part loam, 1 part peat, and 3 parts coarse sand.

Pines and other conifers grow in association with a symbiotic fungus which grows in the root ball of the tree. If this fungus is not present, the tree may die. For this reason, pines and other conifers should never be bare-rooted, unless steps are taken to re-introduce the fungus to the repotted plant, such as making a slurry (thin mud) of the old soil and pouring it over the newly potted soil.

Some experts feel that it is more important to be sure that the tree always has a healthy root system with sufficient feeder roots than to worry about symbiotic fungi. They feel that trees are more likely to die from having their root systems reduced too much at once than from not having the fungus present. Certainly it is good advice in any case to be sure the tree has sufficient roots.

Pests and diseases:

None of significance.

Bibliography:

Jahn (ed.) “The Simon and Schuster Guide to Bonsai” Murata’s “Four Seasons of Bonsai”

Owen’s “Bonsai Identifier”

Resnick’s “Bonsai”

Samson’s “Creative Art of Bonsai’ Tomlinson’s “Complete Book of Bonsai” USDA Fact Sheet ST-481

Compiled by Sabrina Caine Edited by Thomas L. Zane 

Podocarpus

Common Name:

Buddhist pine, Chinese yew

podocarpus

General Information:

This upright, dense evergreen has pointed, leathery, dark green leaves arranged on stiff, symmetrical branches and works very well as a screen, hedge, strong accent plant, or framing tree. The crown forms a somewhat pyramidal to oval outline. Able to reach 90 feet in height, Nagi Podocarpus is usually seen at 30 to 40 feet in height due to the moderately-slow growth rate. Compact branching habit and very dark green foliage make this a dense tree in full sun, more open but surprisingly dense in shade.

Old Podocarpus bonsai are impressive with their stately elegance. Although trunk and bark formation always takes quite a few years, Podocarpus growth varies with climate - slow-growing indoors and towards the cooler end of their range, fast-growing in sunny areas. Their evergreen leaves are similar in formation and shape to yews, although Podocarpus leaves are larger - just under 2 inches to a maximum of 4 inches.

Family:

Podocarpaceae

Lighting:

Likes direct sunlight. Too little light will result in large, elongated needles. Can survive, however, on as little as 800 Lux. In very sun-intense areas, Podocarpus may suffer leaf-burn if not given shade during the hottest part of the day.

Temperature:

Zones 9 through 11. Will survive light frost, but for best results, keep above 55F. Can be grown successfully indoors in a well-lit spot. Prefers winter temperatures between 61-68F.

Watering:

Likes slightly moist soil, but be sure to provide adequate drainage. Gray needles are a sign of over-watering. Daily misting is appreciated by indoor plants.

Feeding:

Peters 20-20-20, fish emulsion and fertilizer cakes are recommended. For indoor growers who can’t take the fishy smell, liquid bonsai fertilizer can be used, applied every two weeks in warm weather, every six in winter. Podocarpus likes slightly acid soil, so a dose of Miracid several times a year is helpful. These plants need additional iron and magnesium; iron is partially supplied by the Miracid. In addition, apply a dose of chelated iron twice yearly. To prevent magnesium deficiency, use 2- 3 applications of Epsom Salts (1 tbs per gallon of water) a year.

Pruning and wiring:

Young Podocarpus plants have a tendency to grow straight up, with no side branching. This is easily remedied by cutting them back hard, which will result in aggressive back budding. Pinch back new growth as necessary, and remove oversized needles. If half of the bud is pinched away, back budding is stimulated, and leaf reduction will occur. Cutting the leaves will result only in brown edges; smaller replacement leaves will not necessarily form. Wire lignified wood for 2-3 months, being careful to watch for any signs that the wire is beginning to cut into the bark. Green wood may be wired loosely. Old Podocarpus wood becomes very rigid and is difficult to bend. Suitable for all sizes, and all styles except broom. Driftwood can be successfully incorporated into the design.

Propagation:

Podocarpus roots easily from cuttings. The best method seems to be simply to place softwood (preferably new growth) cuttings in water until roots form, then transplanting them into bonsai soil. Hardwood cuttings require the use of rooting hormone and bottom heat. Podocarpus can be grown from seed, but seeds can be hard to obtain.

Repotting:

Every 3-4 years in spring. Roots should only be pruned by 10- 15%.

Pests and diseases:

Pests:

Scale, mealy bugs and sooty mould.

Diseases:

It is susceptible to root rot on soils with poor drainage.

Some species suitable for bonsai:

Podocarpus alpinus - a dwarf form with smaller and less coarse foliage than P. macrophyllus.

Podocarpus macrophylla (also called P. chinensis): kusamaki, Buddhist pine, Chinese yew, bigleaf podocarpus, swallow’s tongue pine - this Chinese native bears green or purple fruit. In the wild, it can grow up to 40 ft.

Podocarpus macrophylla Maki (also called Podocarpus sinensis): Southern yew - smaller than the species, this shrub grows to 20 ft. Podocarpus nagi: Yellowwood - A native of Japan, China and Taiwan, this small tree has 2-3 inch leaves and globose fruit.

Podocarpus nivalis: Alpine yew - another dwarf form, used for bonsai in the West.

Bibliography:

Ainsworth’s “Art of Indoor Bonsai”

Jahn (ed.) “The Simon and Schuster Guide to Bonsai”

Lesniewicz’s “Bonsai in Your Home”

Owen’s “Bonsai Identifier”

Samsons’ “Creative Art of Bonsai”

Tomlinson’s “Complete Book of Bonsai”

Florida Bonsai V:3:21-24,XI:1:20-23,XII:3:5,XV:4:8-9,XVI:1:23,XVII:4:9 Florida Landscape Plants by Watkins pg. 15

USDA Fact Sheet ST-497

University of Florida, Florida Cooperative Extension Service, Fact Sheet OH 38

Compiled by Sabrina Caine and Thomas L. Zane