Page 44 - BSAM 2016 Q4

Top and Middle; The detailed wiring proceeds until all the branches and sub branches are wired and positioned.
Lower Middle; This container was chosen for il Nettuno.
Bottom; The proud collectors, Antonio Villena della Spagna, wife Gigi and the newly potted il Nettuno.
I see in this case, you chose to create a hole in the branch instead of a deep groove, usually reinforced with a spline of thick wire.
It is an invention of mine for very hard woods such as yew and olive. In this case, the branch to be bent was very thick, Yew wood is very hard and sti , and the deadwood adds to its strength. I opted for my master’s technique which is to clear wood from the interior part of the branch. Masahiko Kimura taught me this technique, which for me is unsurpassed, but I also made an oval hole that reduces and weakens the ber even more.
What measures do you take to protect the live portion of the branch?
e bark and deadwood is rst treated with propolis to help with dehydration. en I wrap ra a around and through the branch and apply thick, 5 mm copper wire around the branch. I use natural ra a and not synthetic tape, so the bark can continue to exchange gasses with the environment.
What is propolis and how is it applied?
Propolis or bee glue, is a resin made by bees with antibiotic insecticide and fungicide activity used as a sealant. It helps prevent dehydration of the live branch.
Propolis is brushed on to the bark and deadwood creating a natural second skin for the tree. Ra a is then applied as usual. Propolis is not known in Japan but in Europe it was once used as a ller, mixed with wax for tree surgery on monumental trees. It was expensive so it fell into disuse with the advent of chemistry; Now it is coming back due to the organic movement. For me it is very valid and we use it a lot in Italy.
Why is ra a necessary and is it the best material for this technique?
e ra a adheres tightly to the bark but allows it to breathe. It also protects the bark from damage by allow- ing the wire spirals to slide during the bending.
A er the branch is protected with ra a and you are ready to bend the branch, what are your thinking about as you perform the bend?
I prefer to bend by hand. In this way I “feel” the bend and realize how far I can go. It’s a feeling... and I’m not afraid because I have never had a branch break with this technique.
With a lever and the help of my assistants, I force- fully bent the branch until it is in the desired position. e technique allows bends otherwise impossible for such a large, thick branch and distributes the forces evenly so as not to break, preventing the loss of the branch. It is a di cult task that pushes the limit of possibilities, therefore it should be performed only on very vigorous specimens.
Do you try to bend the branch all at once? Are there times when a branch is bent a little at a time?
Some do it a little at a time, but I think it’s better to bend all at once. I believe bending a little at a time is too stressful for the plant.
42 | BCI | October/November/December 2016
How much deadwood do you remove to make the branch easy to bend? How do you know it is enough to bend the branch?
Di cult to answer because it is very variable. I would say in general two-thirds needs to be removed, but by bending and feeling the tension, I discern if it is suf- cient.